Learning to Surf is Timing and Rhythm
Learning to Surf is Timing and Rhythm which overcomes the average beginners instincts to rush. Beginners don’t realize that catching waves to riding is a sequence that has to be followed with smoothness.
Beginner surfers learn the basic techniques on land in a dry land lesson. Then the first thing that happens in the water is they need to be slowed down to get all the steps. I give students a count to go through the sequence to say out loud. The point is to overcome their rush to instincts which are all wrong.
Beginner Surfers Need to Get Out of Rush Mode
Most beginners want to rush because their mind is anxious both from learning something new and because at the beginning the waves are intimidating. Beginners in Oceanside start standing in waist deep water and riding foam waves. They go from a standing start to moving fast and this is intimidating.
The sequence begins with spotting the foam wave to ride. Then the surfer rolls over on the surfboard and takes a few easy paddles to get going. They take a look to the side to see when the wave will approach the board. Then they paddle hard three times to get in front of the foam. The board takes off and the student learns to feel this.
Many beginners are popping up before the wave arrives and too soon after it hits the board because they are anxious. Patience is needed to first catch the wave and ride in front on smooth water. Then the surfer can put his hands flat on the board next to his rib cage.
The Rhythm of the Pop Up
Beginners want to throw their hands in front of their shoulders in an already popped up position. This makes it difficult to get their feet under them in this “down dog” position. Instead the surfer rests for a few seconds with his chest still on the board and head up looking forward.
Then the surfer pushes up and places one foot flat on the board under his butt. He has to take the time to put the foot flat. If he doesn’t he can’t stand on it and releases his hands from the board. As he stands, his hands rise in the air and then moves the other foot to the front of the board. Its a sequence with one step after the other.
The student has to rise into the right stance. The stance is like pushing a tall box with hands in front and hips and shoulders square to the front. Weight is equal on both legs and knees are flexed. The surfer wants to feel the board with his feet so he can correct course changes.
Most students say once they slowed down, it got much easier.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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