How to Surf Bigger Waves
Beginner surfers usually have their thoughts running on How to Surf Bigger Waves. Surfers start with foam waves near the beach and then paddle out to catch bigger foam waves and small real waves.
Small real waves require more paddling than bigger real waves because they don’t get steep and don’t have much push. Whereas three hard paddles will launch a surfer on a foam wave, it may take ten paddles to get in front of a small (2′-3′) real wave.
Transition from Smaller Real Waves to Bigger Ones
After that a surfer finds that a bigger real wave lifts the tail of the board and a surfer needs three good paddles to catch it. Waves can be caught down the face, pointing toward the pocket, pushing the nose toward the pocket after catching the wave, and at the corners where the wave is smaller.
Most surfers that enter the water frequently can work their way to catching 5′ to 6′ waves. On a sandbar beach like Oceanside, those waves are steep and often close out, The surfer has to have a fast solid pop up and bottom turn into the pocket. Most surfers on these waves try to angle toward the pocket immediately if it isn’t too steep.
Riding Beyond 6′ Real Waves
After 6′ the number of surfers thin out. Bigger waves move faster, have more weight, and deliver more crushing impact to surfers paddling out and falling off the lip. It takes a whole new level of courage and skill to ride over 6′ waves.
The surfboards used can be a wide variety. There have been surfers in Oceanside that have ridden 7’+ waves on soft tops. They were big wave riders who knew their stuff. Long boards will work. Most of the surfers are short boarders because they have the proven skills, strength, stamina, and courage. They might be young.
Pro surfers who ride 20’+ waves have said they were terrified at each step up. Dave Kalama, the protegee of Laird Hamilton says we don’t measure in feet but rather in increments of terror. Most surfers are afraid but they learn how to manage that fear. Serious injury is possible on bigger waves and so are hold downs where the surfer doesn’t get air for a few waves.
Timing and Positioning Become Basic Skills
Surfers learn to time waves and get in position. Both are crucial in bigger waves. The surfer sees the wave forming and paddles to the spot he judges where it will arc. Arcs only last a few seconds and the surfer has to let the wave come under his board until the tail reaches near the top before paddling down.
He keeps perfecting this technique as waves get larger. The surfer either drops down the face or points toward the pocket if the wave is not too steep. The steeper the wave, the faster the surfer has to accelerate down the line to avoid the falling lip. On reefs, the bigger waves often barrel and now the surfer often grabs an outside rail to keep the other rail into the face.
Surfers Have Different Pop Ups
Surfers have different techniques on how fast they release their hands from the board and how quickly they stand upright. Some place both feet on the board while still holding on, stay in a low croutch, and then gradually stand up as they enter the pocket. Others pop up releasing their hands as their feet hit the board and are upright as they drop or angle.
Accelerating is the first maneuver as the surfer moves the nose of the board up and down the face with his front foot two or three times before he starts his first trick or maneuver. The speed of the wave increases as it gets bigger. Catching bigger waves requires more paddling strength. It gets built as the surfer progresses.
Most professional surfers work on conditioning for more time out of the water than they spend surfing. Strength and flexibility is important to ride waves and avoid injury. Yoga is the minimum stretching routine. Building upper, lower, and core body strength are all important.
The surfer builds massive confidence. Laird Hamilton warns newbies who want to surf Jaws that if they don’t think they can do it, don’t even try it.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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