Beginner Surfers Ride Real Waves
Beginner Surfers Ride Real Waves after mastering fundamentals on foam waves. The fundamentals include the timing and rhythm of catching foam waves, popping up, and riding to the beach.
Timing foam waves and real waves is similar except foam waves roll for a long time and a real wave only peaks for a few seconds. Learning the timing difference is a main factor. With a foam wave the surfer rolls over on his board in waist deep water when the wave is 20′ feet away. He paddles easy and looks to see when the wave will hit the board. As it hits the board, he paddles hard 3 times to get in front of the wave.
Catching Real Waves
For a real wave the surfer has to be in the area where the real waves are breaking. Where other surfers are sitting is often a clue. Surfers take real waves differently with some wanting them early and others wanting them late. You have to determine your best positioning on a real wave.
I teach beginners a pop up that can be used on real waves The surfer paddles to get into or in front of a foam wave and then places his hands next to his rib cage behind his shoulders. He pushes up and places a rear foot on the board. Then he brings the front foot forward as he rises and releases his hands from the board.
The surfer should come up with shoulders square to the beach and not have a trailing hand like a snowboarder or skateboarder. This places the hips over the center line instead of the butt over one of the rails like a skateboarder.
First Maneuver on a Real Wave
Once up on a real wave, the first maneuver will be a bottom turn into the pocket. Many surfers will push the nose to the pocket before popping up to escape the falling lip. It depends on how steep the wave is and how fast it is closing. Most sand bottom beach waves close out fast. Reef waves can be more gentle and give the surfer longer to pop up and ride down the face without pearling.
Start with foam waves and move to small real waves. On sand bar beaches, the waves often break on the outside and then a smaller wave breaks on the inside which many surfers prefer. The smaller wave is the best place to start.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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