Beginner Surfers Move From Foam to Real Waves
Beginner Surfers Move from Foam to Real Waves in a progression of advancement. The beginner must master the fundamentals of foam waves and ride straight to the beach.
Mastering foam waves means timing foam waves and catching them. It includes having a smooth pop up that lands the body in the correct stance on the surfboard to ride to the beach. Surfers have learned to place their hands after paddling next to their rib cage to push up and not in front of their shoulders which makes the board pearl.
Getting Out Through the Foam Wave
The surfer paddles out through the foam wave by paddling hard into the wave, running the nose of the board through the top of the foam and then pushing up to let the wave go under his chest. Then he turns 90 degrees to wait for the next good wave.
The surfer turns by pushing the water under the board with one hand and stroking long with the other. A powerful stroke turns the board 90 degrees in two strokes. When the wave approaches 20 feet, the surfer paddles easy and looks for the wave to hit the board. Then he paddles hard three times. I even kick as the wave approaches to get a little more momentum.
Catching Real Waves
When it comes time to catch real waves that perhaps are breaking close to shore, the surfer can paddle in an arc parallel to the wave instead of making two 90 degree turns. The advantage is the surfer is already moving for momentum and keeps his eye on the wave longer. When the wave approaches, the surfer gradually angles to the shore to catch it.
When hunting real waves that are smaller on the shore break, the surfer can see whether he has to go out a little or stay where he is to get in position. Getting in position is different than foam. Foam can be caught anywhere. A real wave arcs under the surfboard. As the tail of the board rises, the surfer paddles hard three times and then places his hands next to his rib cage.
Small real waves take more paddling than catching foam waves. The surfer has to get out in front because the small real wave has less push than most foam waves. As real wave size increases, the surfer uses the power of the wave to lift the tail and can paddle less. The important thing is to paddle very hard, but under control to get launched into the wave.
Catch Real Waves at the Corner
Catching real waves at the corners is a good way to begin. The real wave apexes (foam comes over the lip) and then rolls in a pocket right or left or both. The surfer aims for the pocket and lets the wave roll under the board after it has been rolling for several seconds. The surfer points his board at a 45 degree angle to the beach and maintains that angle after he pops up.
If the surfer is on an 8′ or 9′ soft top riding on a sand bar beach, the waves might be steep and cause the board to pearl. The surfer has to aim the board at the pocket instead of going down the face. He can also catch the wave and then push the nose toward the pocket before popping up.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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