Surfing is Rhythm and Timing
Beginners surfers struggle until they learn that Surfing is Rhythm and Timing. Even during a surf lesson students are struggling to put all the pieces together until they slow down and find the rhythm and timing.
Surfing is a sequence. All the steps have to be included. Beginners eliminate steps because their minds are racing and they can’t focus on each step, one at a time. No beginner realizes how technical surfing is and they tend to think their instincts will get them through. It is not true.
Getting the Brain and Body to Work Together
Another difficulty in surfing is getting the brain and body to work together to go through the sequence. In dry land we practice the sequence of the pop up. The surfer paddles to catch a wave. After the board has taken off and is level, the surfer puts his hands in a man’s push up position while still in a relaxed position on the board. Then he pushes up bringing one foot under his butt. He stands on the foot and raises his hands so the other foot can get to the front of the board.
Students can get this in dry land but can’t get it for a while in the water. They cut corners. They paddle and then put both hands in front of their shoulders in an already pushed up position. This will end the ride as they tip the board over or push the nose under water.
Learning Patience and Poise
Patience is difficult to teach. The student must be patient to paddle until the board is in front of the wave and the nose is above the surface. The student must not rush to stand up but must put his hands next to his rib cage. This is a difficult step for impatient students. They want to get up fast as possible. When the student now pushes up, he is more poised because he rested a second.
Good poise leads to smooth movement and proper placement of the front foot. When the student takes the time to stand on the rear foot first, the front foot is easy to place in the right spot. Rushed moves result in the front foot being on a rail or behind the hands. The student will not ride long if the front foot is not in the right place.
The most difficult part of teaching is overcoming the student’s desire to follow their instincts instead of learning the sequence. This is what takes them so long to learn. Very few pop up into the right stance on the first ride, but a few do. The rest have to be convinced to slow down and include each step.
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Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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