How to Surf
My students each year take lessons so they can learn How to Surf. It is a great quest and an adventure everyone enjoys even when they are not successful standing up on the surfboard. There is something magical about being pushed by waves on a surfboard.
When students gather for the dry land lesson they are excited and anxious. They want to learn something new, have fun in the ocean, and are fearful about learning and getting punished by waves.
Follow the Instructions if You Can
I give students explicit instructions on the necessary sequence for catching waves and standing up that doesn’t allow much variation. I tell them that when they get in the water, their minds will go “gaga” and they will ignore everything they learned in the dry land lesson. 90% of the time it is true. Only a few jump up correctly on their first run and ride to the beach. How do they do it?
Surfing is technical and precise although the dry land portion makes it look easy and everyone can stand up in the dry land lesson. The problem is something happens when the “brain” is in the water. Surfing requires coordination. It also requires some strength, flexibility, and focus.
Learn the Stand Up Sequence
The sequence for standing up is roll over on the surfboard and start paddling when the wave is 20 feet away. Look to the side for the wave arrival at the surfboard. Then paddle hard three times to get in front of the wave so the surfboard tail is not in the foam. When the board takes off and is leveling, the surfer can put their hands on the board.
Hands are placed in a man’s push up position next to the rib cage. Most beginners have trouble doing this. Their instincts tell them to throw their hands in front of their shoulders in full push up position and then get their feet under their body. This pushes the nose under water or tips the board over.
After resting a second in the “stop” position, the surfer then pushes up and places a foot flat on the board under his butt. This allows him to stand up on that leg. As he rises, he lifts his hands off the board to rise in a fully upright position. Now the surfer brings the other foot to the front of the board and places it in the middle. Now the surfer is riding if he is in the right stance.
The Stance on the Board Has to Be Right
The right stance is feet shoulder width apart. The weight is equal on the front and back leg. Most important, the hips and shoulders are square to the beach and parallel to the beach. In this stance the board will go straight and the surfer does not have to work.
It seems simple and it is easy to accomplish on dry land. Being in the water is a test of the student’s poise, brain/body coordination, and courage. Funny how many people want to surf but are afraid to stand up on the board. They have the sequence and the timing but won’t rise upright to surf. It is a lot of fun regardless of where you wind up.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page
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