How to Ride Bigger Surf Waves
As soon as beginner surfers learn the basics they want to know How to Ride Bigger Surf Waves. Riding bigger waves seems to be the allure for surfers to a point when they find their comfort zone. Most surfers reach a peak of where they are comfortable.
The peak is usually reached by tempting the biggest waves available and learning the dynamics of big waves and understanding what it would take to ride yet bigger waves. I found I could ride good 7 foot waves and that for learning on 10 foot waves I might have to pay a price I was not prepared to pay.
Progressing from Foam Wave Riding
After learning to ride foam waves to the beach, the beginner starts paddling out to ride small real waves in the 2′ to 3′ category. These are more easily found on sand bar beaches like Oceanside, CA. Then the venture to bigger waves and the line up begin.
The best surfers at a break line up close to where the wave breaks biggest. The apex is where the foam first comes over a lip before the wave starts to break and roll down in a pocket. Before you jump on a real wave in the line up, you have to look to see if anyone is already on the wave. They have the right of way.
The three ways of catching real waves are riding straight down the face and bottom turning into the pocket. A second way is to aim for the pocket as the wave is caught so the board is in the pocket as soon as the wave is caught. The third way is to catch the wave and then push the nose toward the pocket before the pop up. This gives quick entry to get ahead of the lip. Especially useful when waves are closing out quick.
An Entry to Bigger Waves
The fourth way is a good way to begin bigger waves than you have been riding. It is catching the waves in the pocket after it is already rolling. The surfer paddles parallel to where the wave is breaking and allows the pocket to roll under the board. The board is facing the beach at a 45 degree angle and continues at that angle after the wave has picked up the board.
This fourth way gives the surfer a feel for a wave. He can then move close to the apex if he is comfortable. Being uncomfortable is the process of catching bigger waves because being scared is part of the process. At this point, you have an idea of the punishment you will receive if you crash.
Getting in good condition and mastering the skills helps confidence. With good conditioning and mastered skills, riding bigger waves will be easier. However, there is always the learning process and the unpredictable so crashes are inevitable. The big wave surfers can tell you about every crash that they didn’t enjoy.
The Why Becomes the Million Dollar Question
Why you are tempting bigger waves might be a good question to answer. Your motivation for seeking risk has to have a reward you deem worthwhile. Are you proving something to yourself? Do you just want to say you did it? Do you want to experience it? Is each step a part of your goal to ride much bigger waves? Are you traveling to some place where big waves are the norm?
If you want to ride bigger waves, you can probably find the conditions. Most beaches during the year experience big swells. On those days it is surprising how few surfers are out compared to the normal line up. Most say the big swell is beyond their goal. You have to decide if risk or comfort is your desire.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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