Beginner Surfers Want to Get Barreled
Beginner surfers see movies and then Beginner Surfers Want to Get Barreled. It takes a while to progress from learning to surf to riding real waves and then the ultimate ride for many in the barrel.
It takes skill, conditioning, and courage to reach the barreling stage. Then it takes the right beach where barrels occur. Not every beach produces barrels. Barrels occur where waves are at least head high and that alone is a condition for advanced surfers. Most of the pictures and films show waves that are 10′ to 30′ with barrels and that is another whole level of wave that most surfers never ride.
Most surfers are riding 4′ to 6′ waves in the U.S. In places where big rideable waves occur like in Hawaii, Mexico, Tahiti, Portugal, and other favorite spots have locals conditioned to riding big waves and surfers traveling to ride big waves.
The barrel occurs mostly at reef breaks and in short patches where the swell hits a particular bottom formation of rock or coral and gets squeezed into a giant peak that then collapses and rolls in a barrel formation. There is generally a crowd when these waves are breaking because they need a particular swell direction and a major swell size.
The beginner who wants to ride a barrel begins like all beginners learning the basics on foam waves and progressing to ride real waves. They get in better condition as they go, build courage to keep riding bigger waves, and improve their skills. It usually requires surfers to be in the water often to maintain conditioning and timing.
Barrels are the big payoff for surfers like advancing to Formula 1 race driving. Hopefully you advance and get to experience that some day.
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How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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