Catching Real Waves Requires Skill and Courage
What beginner surfers learn is that Catching Real Waves Requires Skill and Courage. Skill progresses with practicing the right techniques and fear is the 800-pound gorilla that is rarely mentioned.
Part of increasing skill is improving physical conditioning. To catch bigger waves means more paddling into bigger surf. Riding and falling off the wave at the end also requires energy. A fit surfer has developed his upper body, core, and lower body strength. He has gained flexibility through surf specific stretching.
Mastering the Basics
The surfer riding real waves has mastered the pop up and correct stance on the board. The pop up should place the rider’s hips and shoulders square to the front when riding down the face. If the surfer is in a “snowboard” stance with one arm trailing, he will fall off before he bottom turns into the pocket.
Timing and positioning in real waves is key. The surfer wants the wave to roll under the surfboard. When the tail is rising, he can paddle hard down the face and then pop up. Incorrect positioning can cause the wave to crash on the surfer or cause him to fall off the front. This is where courage is necessary to get in the right spot. Many beginners chase the wave from behind.
Learn What Waves You Like
Some waves form slowly as with reefs and are easier to catch. Sand bar beaches often have steep waves that close out quickly. These sand bar waves require more courage because it is easier to get smashed. The slow forming reef waves are often the favorite of long boarders because they can get on the wave long before it arcs and don’t have to worry about pearling.
The steep wave creates a greater risk for pearling which is a surfer’s least favorite fall. It is only surpassed by going over the falls which occurs especially if a surfer gets sideways on the lip thinking it will go under hip or gets wrapped up in the lip on a big wave.
Surfers determine pretty quickly how big of a wave they want to risk. Those determined to ride big waves have a painful learning process because waves are often unpredictable. Those who want to ride without big falling risks will stick to smaller waves in the 4′ to 6′ range. As waves get bigger, they move faster and have more weight. Getting rolled by a 7′ wave is a whole different dimension that with a 4′ wave.
A surfer’s courage does increase as he builds condition and skill. He has faith he can survive falls and not get too tired to save himself when he crashes. As his skills and judgment improve by frequent trips to the water, he will have more faith he can take on bigger challenges.
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Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
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