Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves
Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves after mastering the techniques riding foam waves. There is a lot to learn riding a soft top board on foam waves. It is the entry point to advancing, but the dues must be paid.
All the basic techniques that will ever be used for surfing are learned at the beginning. They must be learned correctly or imperfect techniques magnify with bigger waves. The beginner can catch a foam wave and ride to the beach in good balance without working hard to stay on the surfboard.
Progressing from Foam Waves to Real Waves
After the surfer has learned to ride foam waves, they begin paddling through the foam waves to catch waves further out. On a sand bar beach like Oceanside, the real waves break out far and then the foam waves roll to the beach often reforming into new real waves and more foam waves.
The surfer paddles out and then turns around to catch a foam wave. The further out they go, the closer they get to the first breaking real wave and the bigger and more powerful are the foam waves. This should be achieved in increments complementary to the surfer’s building courage.
After the surfer is comfortable catching the foam waves, they should look for small real waves. The waves should be no bigger than 3′ feet. The first attempts should be to ride down the face. On a real wave there is more speed and the board is pointed down which freaks out beginners. The chances of pearling (nose under water) are great.
If the waves are too steep to ride down the face with a soft top board, the surfer can angle at the top or go for the corners. Angling is where the surfer catches the wave, but turns the nose toward the pocket and rides toward the end of the wave instead of straight at the beach. If the wave is too steep, this won’t work.
Catching waves at the corner is paddling to where the wave is getting smaller as it unfurls in a pocket and letting the wave come under the board while the board is pointing at a 45 degree angle to the beach. After a wave breaks, the pocket keeps getting closer to the beach. The surfer intercepts this pocket by also angling toward the beach to intercept it.
The surfer’s pop up at this point must be good so he could pop up every time and his stance on the board must be correct so he can ride every wave. Defects in the pop up or stance will prevent the surfer from advancing.
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