Why Surf a Long Board

The surfing long board begins at 9′. It is a high volume board that has advantages for many types of surfers. The high volume makes it easier to paddle, catch waves, and ride.

Beginners often start on 9′ soft tops to learn the basics. I like to teach on a high volume surf board so that the board is not an issue with learning techniques. After students have mastered the begging techniques, they can decide on the next step.

Who Would Enjoy the Long Board

Paddling is a serious determinant for what board to surf. The lower volume short boards are more difficult to paddle and surfers without paddling stamina will have shorter sessions. This is why older surfers who do not get to surf often, like a long board. The fun of surfing is catching a lot of waves and perhaps staying in the water a few hours.

Catching waves is easier on a long board in certain conditions. When a wave forms, the long board can catch it earlier than a short board. Surfing the long board is fun on slow forming gentle waves. The long board gets the right of way before a short board can even start paddling.

The long board likes a wave that is not too steep until you get to very big waves when surfers ride guns just to stay on the wave. The long board doesn’t need the same timing as the short board surfer. The long board catches the wave as it forms while the short board has to time the wave where it is arcing over his head.

Riding the Surfing Long Board

This is what often differentiates surfers selections. The long board drives the wave easily and not much techniques is necessary to get a great ride. The short board requires techniques and athleticism. The short boarder works a wave and the long boarder can be much more casual.

The surfing long board can accelerate on the wave and perform some maneuvers, but the thickness of rails and volume prevent it from sharp carves performed by short boards.

The long board is more fun on smaller wave days. It can ride waves that are only a few feet tall, less powerful, and not creating great push. Short boarders often have long boards in their arsenal for these type of days.

Learn More

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