What Are The Techniques of Surfing
Beginners who want to learn to surf need to know the Techniques of Surfing. Because beginners don’t realize there are techniques is why they can’t usually learn on their own without instruction.
A second problem that occurs when beginners try on their own is they learn some bad habits because they naturally keep doing the same thing time after time hoping for success. At a lesson, we have to unwind these habits they form.
Laying Properly on the Board is Important
Laying on the board is an important technique. Most beginners don’t realize they have to have their feet at the back of the board which for them is a soft top. At 8′ or 9′ depending on a student’s weight they begin with the toes at the back, laying straight as a pencil and placing the nose over the center line. If not in the correct position, the board will pearl or tip over.
Paddling is important. Surfers don’t want a swim paddle in foam waves or just a hand paddle. The swim paddle turns the board and the hand paddle is not powerful. The surfer wants half a swim paddle and to dig the hand into the elbow and pull with the forearm. When paddling out to waves, the long swim paddle is fine, but for catching waves, the shorter stroke is better.
Catching the Foam Wave is About Timing and Rhythm
Catching a foam wave and popping up is timing and rhythm. When a foam wave is approaching within 20′ (assuming the surfer is standing in waist deep water), the surfer rolls over on the board and paddles a few easy strokes. When the wave is about to hit the board, the surfer paddles hard. What beginners don’t realize is that you paddle hard until the board takes off before putting hands on it. It requires a feel.
Once the board is at peak speed after taking off, the surfer puts his hands next to his rib cage flat on the board. Most beginners have the instinct to throw their hands in front of their shoulders and already be in a pushed up position. This ends the ride. The board pearls, tips, and it is difficult to get the feet under the body.
Pushing up on the Surf Board
From the man’s push up position, the beginner rides for a few seconds. Then he pushes up and places one foot flat on the board under his butt so he can stand on it. I teach this method while others teach the student to bring a foot up like a chicken wing and place the side of the foot on the board. After a foot is on the board, the surfer stands lifting his hands and bringing the other foot to the front of the board.
The proper stance is necessary for a beginner. The front foot should be at a 45 degree angle across the center line close enough to the nose to hold it level in the wave but not so close as to push it under water. The feet are shoulder width apart with weight equal on both legs. The body is upright with hands in front. I teach pushing the tall box posture to get the hips and shoulders square to the front and parallel to the beach.
The surfer wants to have his knees flexed so he can move with the motion of the board and surfers learn to use their feet to control the direction of the board. The board will gyrate going through the water and the front and back foot coordinate to keep it going straight.
After mastering these techniques and riding straight to the beach, the surfer is ready to start paddling out through the foam waves and catching bigger foam waves and then small real waves.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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