Surfing is Timing and Rhythm
Surfing is Timing and Rhythm making it a sequence of moves that flow. The beginner has a difficult time because they deal with a racing mind that wants to default to instincts instead of correct techniques.
The beginner surfer is in a little bit of overwhelm as he lies on the board and is all of a sudden flying toward the beach on the front of a foam wave. He knows he has to stand but forgets the process he just learned on the beach. The process now seems inadequate as he is faced with the speed of the board.
The Sequence Falls into Place with a Calm Mind
Once the surfer starts to calm down and focus, the steps of the learned sequence can be executed and everything moves in the correct time. The sequence is to paddle before a foam wave arrives, paddle hard as it is touching the board, catch the wave with accelerated paddling, place the hands on the board in a man’s push up position, push, put a rear foot on the board flat under the butt, stand lifting the hands off the board, and put the front foot forward.
That is a lot to focus on when your mind is in a panic mode. Until beginners stop the panic, they can’t get into the flow of the process. With all these steps, one can see that there is a sequence that has to be followed, Any mistakes along the way result in falling. I have new students count the steps out loud to over ride their thinking. My count is paddle, stop and glide (man’s push up position), push, back foot (flat on the board under the butt), stand (lifting the hands off the board), and front foot.
The correct stance is like pushing a tall box. The hands are in front. The legs are slightly separated. They need to be about 3′ apart to get a stable stance. If the feet are next to each other, there is no balance. The surfer learns to feel the board with his feet and flexed knees so he can guide the board as it bounces and twists toward the beach.
The timing and rhythm is like a dance and the surfer acknowledges it once he has it.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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