Surfers Want to Feel the Board with Their Feet
Beginners have a lot of fundamental techniques to learn before they have much awareness of what is going on but I tell new students Surfers Want to Feel the Board with Their Feet.
Beginner surfers learn the timing of catching waves and executing a pop up into the correct stance. In the correct stance the board will go straight to the beach with very little work necessary. The experience improves when the surfers begin to feel what the board is doing with their feet and directing it.
Feeling the Surfboard and Directing It
As the board moves through the water toward the beach it will try to change directions with wave action and weight shifts. In the perfect beginner stance, the surfer has both hands in front like pushing a tall box with hips and shoulders square to the front. This places equal weight on both sides of the stringer keeping the board balanced and moving straight forward.
From this stance a surfer could then start to carve by turning his upper torso in the direction of the turn and then placing pressure on the toes or heels which ever is on the side of the turn. This requires a subtle movement of the feet and sort of rocking the feet forward with a little pressure and then relieving the pressure as the board carves.
Snowboarders and Advanced Surfers Use Their Feet
Snowboarders learn to pressure the feet to carve and then flatten their feet to make the board neutral and then pressure again to carve a new line. A new surfer can learn to influence the board with their feet riding straight to the beach.
As an advanced surfer, the techniques for carves include moving the upper torso in the direction of desired travel and pressuring the feet to influence how deeply the rails sink into the wave. The carving action includes torquing the upper body and having it travel to the feet and then the board. Learning to feel the feet on the board becomes more and more important.
More Posts
Oceanside Surf Lessons for Beginners
Beginner Surfers Learn the Pop Up
How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board
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