How Beginner Surfers Progress to Real Waves

beginner surfers progress to real waves

Most surfers have been enticed by seeing advanced surfers and want to know How Beginner Surfers Progress to Real Waves. It is a process that requires frequent trips to the water. It could be done on a vacation or by living near the beach.

Some beginner surfers catch on faster than others. I taught a family with 5 girls and they seemed to have athleticism and great instincts. After I pushed them a few times, they took off to start catching their own waves. After teaching them how to paddle out and turn around to catch waves, they were active. This often takes people two or three lessons.

The First Real Waves

The next step is to start catching small real waves that are often mixed in with foam waves on sand bar beaches. The difference is positioning and timing. The foam wave is riding for a long time from the real wave breaking until it hits the beach. The real wave breaks in a few seconds at a particular spot.

While scouting for foam waves, the surfer could be on the lookout for real waves and paddle to them when they see them. They have to position in front of them and paddle as the real wave is arcing. They want to catch the bottom of small real waves and be up as the lip breaks.

When real waves get to 4′ to 5′, the surfer is dropping into the face. This requires the surfer be in the spot where the waves are breaking. They see the wave forming and paddle to the spot where the wave will roll under the surfboard. Then they paddle hard to get moving down the face. As soon as the wave has the board, the surfer pops up.

Other Ways to Catch Real Waves

Another way to start with real waves is catch them at the corners. As the pocket rolls out from the apex (where the foam first forms on the lip) the wave is not as steep. The surfer paddles at a 45 degree angle to the beach and allows the wave to roll under the board. The surfer pops up and continues at that 45 degree angle. As the wave breaks at the apex and forms a pocket it is getting closer to the beach. The surfer takes this into consideration as he paddles for the corner.

The surfer has the choice sometimes of riding down the face or after the wave catches the board to push the nose toward the pocket before popping up. This allows quicker entry into the pocket without the bottom turn. If a surfer is on a long soft top, taking this angle may eliminate the pearling that occurs from riding down steep faces. Pearling is the nose going under water.

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