Catching Real Waves on Soft Top Boards
Catching real waves on soft top boards follows mastering foam waves. The process is very similar other than the timing. Foam waves can be seen coming whereas real waves peak in a few seconds.
For foam waves, you just have to be between the wave and the beach. For real waves you have to be in position to catch it as it peaks. Students on foam waves learn to paddle hard as the wave hits the board. On real waves you have to get in front of it early.
Real Waves Arc
The surfer on a soft top board has to be paddling early in the formation of the wave so when it starts to peak the board is already getting pushed. A small short board, on the other hand, waits until the arc is over head and then paddles to get down the face.
The soft top board pearls easy (nose under water) if the wave is a steep close out, so on these waves, the surfer wants to get the board pointed toward the pocket early.
Two ways to do this. One is to paddle for the corner so that the board is pointed at a 45 degree angle toward the beach as the pocket rolls under the board. The second way is to point down the face and catch the wave, but before popping up, the surfer turns the board toward the pocket and then pops up.
Gaining Courage for Real Waves
One of the early problems for beginner surfers is getting used to pointing down the face and the speed. I tell students to treat foam waves and real waves the same. Paddle and do the pop up without thinking or panicking about being on a real wave.
The beginner should pop up aggressively on a real wave so their weight is almost leaning forward so they don’t fall off the back. Their natural inclination is to lean back at the speed. The early experiences will have lots of crashes, but after a while, beginners learn how to fall to avoid the real smacks.
Learn More
For Oceanside Surf Lessons, see the Home Page
See the Post Surf Lessons Begin with Foam Waves
See the Post What You Learn in a 2 Hour Lesson
See the Post How to Progress in Surfing
See My Dry Land and In Water Demo video
See How to Catch a Green/Real Wave video
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