Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves
Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves after they have mastered techniques in foam waves. There is a progression to advancement for good reason. Surfers need to learn the techniques, but they also gain strength, stamina and courage.
While riding foam waves, surfers learn the timing of catching waves, how to pop up, and how to ride the surfboard straight to the beach without falling off. This is a big challenge for many as they can’t get the techniques and coordination correct between their brain and bodies.
The Fundamentals of Catching and Riding Real Waves
There are two steps to riding real waves. You first have to catch them. This is a big step coming off riding foam waves. Foam waves can be seen for a distance. Real waves break in a few seconds. The surfer has to learn positioning so he is located where the waves are breaking.
The surfer has to learn new timing. The foam wave impacts the back of the surfboard and pushes it. The real wave comes under the board and the surfer rides down the face. At this point the surfer needs to have developed strong paddling, a good pop up, and a lot of courage.
The real wave (especially on sandbar beaches) is going fast as it becomes unstable at the peak and tumbles into a foam wave. The surfer can ride down the face and bottom turn into the pocket or catch the wave on the face and turn the nose toward the pocket before the pop up.
A third technique good for beginners is catch the wave at the corner where it is not peaking and not as tall. He paddles at a 45 degree angle to the wave as it has already been rolling as a pocket and lets it come under the surfboard. He continues at 45 degrees and avoids the big drop in.
It is a good idea to start riding foam waves on a high volume soft top and continue with that board into learning to catch real waves. It will become evident after learning how to drive waves and perform maneuvers when to move to a hard board.
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