Short Board Surfing
When I teach Oceanside Surf Lessons, we begin with nice stable 8′ or 9′ soft top surf boards. I like to take the board out of the equation when teaching new surfers the basic techniques before they advance to short board surfing. Concentrating on the necessary moves getting up on a board is better if the board is not too much of a factor.
Mastering the Fundamentals
Once all the basics of catching foam waves and riding to the beach have been mastered. Students can learn to ride real waves. The dynamic changes because now you not only have to ride down a face and anticipate the pearl, you have to intercept the wave at the right time, and look for corners when waves are closing out.
The first skill, I like to teach is keeping the surf board moving while patrolling the spot where you have figured the waves are breaking. As soon as I see a wave start to rise, I anticipate whether I have to move out further to catch it, keep moving parallel, or paddle in to catch it. I want the wave to rise under me so when I have risen just under the lip, I can paddle hard and kick to get down the face.
Catching Real Waves in Short Board Surfing
When I am paddling in front of the wave, I am also watching both right and left to see which way the wave is breaking best. I also watch the other surfers to be sure I will have the right of way when the wave arrives. If the wave is going to be a close out, I can feel it and back out. If it is going to crash on me because I have out run it or it doesn’t break like I thought, I can still evade or be prepared.
The most important aspect is to learn to get in front of the wave and let it come under you so the lip is over your head. This takes courage until you learn the timing. Do not try to paddle over the top each time, chasing it. It takes more courage to get in front and there will be more errors, but it is the best way to get good rides and to the pocket after catching the wave.
Learn More:
For Oceanside Surf Lessons, see the Home Page
See the Post Surf Lessons Begin with Foam Waves
See the Post What You Learn in a 2 Hour Lesson
See the Post How to Progress in Surfing
See the Post Breaking Bad Surfing Habits
See the Post Short Board Surfing
See My Dry Land and In Water Demo video
See How to Catch a Green/Real Wave video