Three Ways to Catch Real Waves
There are Three Ways to Catch Real Waves that beginners and short board surfers utilize. The fun of surfing is that every wave is different. There are so many influences moving sea water that even scientists say they don’t know them all.
The beginners starts with small real waves in the 2′ to 3′ range. He learns to time the arc and how to position his surfboard so the wave rolls under it. If its a slow rolling arc, the surfer may have to paddle 8 to 10 times to get in front and be in position at the bottom of the wave so that the arc pushes the board forward.
Getting Used to Catching Real Waves
The beginner learns to adjust mentally to the speed he has not experienced catching foam waves. At this point, the pop has to be smooth and the surfer has to land square on the board with hips and shoulders facing forward.
As the wave gets bigger and if it is peaky like on a sand bar beach in Oceanside, the surfer lets the wave roll under him and only has to paddle a few times because the wave is acting like it will throw the tail over the front of the board. The surfer has to get down the face.
With peaky real waves, it is often possible to get into the pocket faster because these waves close out quickly ending the ride. The surfer points the nose toward the pocket after catching the wave and before popping up. Now he will evade the falling lip and be riding immediately.
Catching Waves at the Corners
A great way to get the feel of bigger waves as you venture forward is to catch them in the corners. Or if waves are breaking too steep and closing out too fast, surfers move to the edge where the wave is rolling out. Here, the surfer paddles parallel to the breaking wave and at a 45 degree angle toward the beach.
As the wave approaches, remember it is always rolling closer to the beach, the surfer lets the wave roll under the board and keeps that 45 degree angle as he is now in the pocket after popping up. On most beach breaks this will be a short ride, but on reefs where there are point breaks, this may still be a long ride.
For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page
To in surfing shape see my website Get Fit to Surf
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