Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves

Beginner surfers learn to ride real waves after mastering techniques of riding foam waves. Once beginners can catch foam waves and ride to the beach in the correct posture, they are ready to progress.

The first progression is to start paddling out through foam waves to turn around and catch the next foam wave. This creates familiarity and comfort selecting the right waves and avoiding getting hit with the wrong ones. In Oceanside, there are small real waves coming in amongst the foam waves. New students can select whether to attempt real waves or just ride the foam ones.

The Fundamentals of Catching Real Waves

New students will find the transition from foam waves to real waves requires more courage. Real waves arc and are open just a few seconds, so the surfer has to be in the right spot. Missing the opening means you miss the wave or if you are too far in front, it crashes on you. It takes practice to get in the right spot.

The second thing new surfers learn is that the speed is greater going down the face of a real wave than riding a foam wave. This frequently causes a little panic and beginners often lean back and fall off the surf board or pearl (nose under water).

The reasons most students pearl is that instead of catching the real wave is they put their hands in front of their shoulders and push the nose down. Hands should always be placed next to the chest in a man’s push up position. I give my students a count to follow for the sequence of popping up. It is paddle, stop (hands on the board), push, back foot on the surf board, stand up, and then front foot on the surf board. The count is shortened in words as code for each step.

A mistake beginners often make is in their panic, they just put their hands on the board and jump up without precision nor poise. If you watch surfers out in the line up or video, you will see they are smooth and have a rhythm. You can’t jump on the board and hope to be lucky. You have to use the right technique.

Paddling is important. Most surfers catching real waves wait until the wave has risen under the surfboard and then with three strong paddles move the surfboard down the wave. Then they put their hands on the board in the man’s push up position, push, and then pop up. The paddling can’t be too few or too many. You learn the timing and rhythm with practice.

Learn More

For Oceanside Surf Lessons, see the Home Page

See the Post Surf Lessons Begin with Foam Waves

See the Post What You Learn in a 2 Hour Lesson

See the Post How to Progress in Surfing

See My Dry Land and In Water Demo video

See How to Catch a Green/Real Wave video

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