Surfers Master Foam Waves First

Surfers Master Foam Waves First before paddling out and riding bigger waves and real waves. The fundamentals learned on near shore foam waves are the foundation for advanced surfing.

Oceanside has great foam waves that start outside and roll to the beach. Beginners hold their boards and wait for the foam waves to get within 20 feet. Then they roll over on surfboard and paddle easy to get momentum.

They look for the wave and as it is about to touch the tail, they paddle hard for three strokes, so the board takes off in front of the wave. Then the surfer can put their hands on the surfboard. They place their hands in a man’s pushup position next to the chest.

Beginners have to resist paddling and then going immediately to a pushed-up position with hands in front of the shoulders toward the nose. The problem with this position is it is difficult to get the rear foot under the butt to stand up. Instead, the surfer has to put both feet on the board while still leaning on his hands. In this position, the surfer flies off the front of the surfboard.

surfers learn right posture on surfboard

Getting The Pop Up Right

After putting their hands on the surfboard in a man’s push up position, I urge beginners to count to three. This prevents them from moving too fast. It is a time to develop some poise and ensure the surfboard is traveling level and straight.

Then the surfer places his rear foot flat on the surfboard under his butt. The foot must be flat to stand up on it. If the surfer lacks flexibility, he will only get the ball of his foot on the board. This will necessitate putting the other foot on the board before standing up. This results in flying off the front of the surfboard. The first thing I usually have to mention to beginners is they lack flexibility to properly execute the pop up.

After placing the rear foot on the surfboard, the surfer stands on it raising his hands and then moving the other foot to the middle stringer of the board just behind the nose. Now the surfer should be standing with his feet shoulder width apart. Weight is equal on front and back leg. Head is upright, not leaning forward over the front foot.

If the surfboard rides straight to the beach with little work required, the surfer is in the right posture and position. This is crucial for advancement. From here, waves get bigger and faster and errors are magnified.

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