Why Surfers Like Long Boards
Why Surfers Like Long Boards would be a question that would allude most beginners. They want to learn because they have mostly seen surfers ripping on short boards. Beginners all want to own a short board because it feels cool to carry one to the beach and feel they are among the elite.
How do surfers get past this feeling of its cool to ride a short board and select the long board? Fact is a lot of long boarders could also ride a short board. Many who like short boards find that on certain days and certain beaches, the long board is the better tool.
The Basics of Long Board Fun
The first thing anyone would notice on a long board is how easy they are to paddle. A surfer gets out to the line up with little effort. A short board is a lot of work. Not only don’t they float on top of the water, they sink creating a more difficult time of paddling.
A long board catches a wave as it starts to form on a good long board beach. As the wave forms the long board rider is up. The short boarder has to wait until the wave arcs before he can pop up. On a long board beach which is usually a nice reef, the long boarders are on the wave closing out the short boarder.
The long board drives a wave. It is different than a short board in which you have to accelerate by pushing the nose of the board up and down the pocket to gain speed. The long boarder doesn’t carve like the short boarder. He steps back on the board and swings the nose around. Good long boarders can do this rapidly and often.
Most long boarders would like to ride the nose. This is where he walks up the board and places five toes or ten toes on the nose and rides in the pocket. This is the supreme trick on a long board and pretty thrilling. The long boarder can walk back and forth on the board to stay in the wave. This is great fun for long boarders.
Its a whole different set of skills and results. Short boarders want to rip the lip, do reverses, do 360’s, get aerials, and ride steep waves. These are not included in the long board repertoire. They are also the skills of younger and still agile surfers.
The final advantage of long boards is they don’t require the agility or stamina of a long boarder so infrequent surfers or older surfers can have lots of fun without staying in young man’s shape.
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