How to Progress to Surfing Short Board
Many aspiring surfers were enticed by the movies where experts seem to easily rip beautiful waves on short boards. Beginners want to do the same thing and want to know How to Progress to Surfing the Short Board.
It takes time, patience, dedication, training, and learning. Surfing is more technical than it appears and more physically demanding than most people expect. Advancing to the short board is learning a lot of techniques and getting stronger in surf specific muscles.
The beginner surfer starts in foam waves riding a soft top and mastering the basics. The basics are timing to catch foam waves, mastering the pop up into the right stance, and building paddling stamina .
Paddling out to Catch Real Waves
The next step is paddling out to catch bigger foam waves and small real waves. The transition to real waves is a matter of timing. The foam waves is visible for a long way. The real wave can be seen forming, but the positioning has to be more exacting.
The surfer must be in the spot where the foam wave arcs. The arc will give the short board its only source of power. The surfer paddles to set his position and lets the wave roll under the board, lifting the tail. Then he paddles hard down the face a few strokes and pops up.
The transition to a short board from here should be reducing length by 6 inches at a time. The board should retain the width and thickness of the soft top being at least 21+ inches wide and 2 3/4 inches thick. As the surfer feels comfortable with each change, he can keep reducing the length.
Technically, short boards start at 6’10” so it takes a while. It is time well spent because the lower volume boards are harder to paddle, harder to catch waves, and not as easy to ride. Each reduction requires a new adjustment to all three.
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