How to Catch Real Waves
You learn how to catch real waves after you have mastered catching foam waves. When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside, students learn to ride foam waves straight to the beach. When your position and posture on the board are correct, the board will go straight with very little balancing effort. The ability to make the board go straight is important as you advance to riding real waves.
Advancing from Catching Shore Break Waves
The next step for my students riding 8′ soft top boards is to paddle out and start catching bigger foam waves. I also start instructing on catching small real waves and catching waves at an angle. On real waves, the nose points down and you have to either pop up quickly to bring the nose up or ride out the real wave with your chin high until you hit flat water.
One of the best ways for a mini long or long board to ride real waves is to catch them at an angle pointing toward the pocket. The timing is waiting for the real wave to come under the board, paddle 3 times to catch the wave, and when the board is moving, point it towards the pocket before popping up.
Beginners Go For the Corners
The advantage is you don’t have the pearling risk of riding down the face and you are ahead of the falling lip quicker. On big close out waves, the angle in the corner may be the only way you can ride the wave. This means you move further from the falling lip and catch the wave where it is not as steep.
It is a matter of timing and knowing where the waves are forming. I like to paddle so I am moving before the wave forms and when I see it, I can decide to paddle towards it, parallel to it or toward the beach. Moving in advance makes you more likely to catch it and get position on other surfers who are sitting idle.
Learn More:
For Oceanside Surf Lessons, see the Home Page
See the Post Surf Lessons Begin with Foam Waves
See the Post What You Learn in a 2 Hour Lesson
See the Post How to Progress in Surfing
See My Dry Land and In Water Demo video
See How to Catch a Green/Real Wave video