Catching Your First Real Waves
Catching the first real waves after learning on foam is a phase in process. One can begin by catching the reformed waves near the beach. Or surfers can catch the smaller waves at an angle. Both require different timing than learned with foam waves.
Starting with the Foam Waves
Foam waves are waves that have broken once on the outside and usually on a sand bottom beach as opposed to a reef. The wave rolls to the beach and often reforms into new smaller waves depending upon the bottom contours.
Riding a soft top board on a two foot wave is a good start. The wave has to be caught as it arcs. It will lift the tail of the board and the board will race down the face. The first new sensation for the beginner is more speed. The beginner might need to think of a more aggressive posture to the front so he doesn’t fall off the back from the momentum.
The Fundamentals of Catching Real Waves
With all real waves, the surfer wants the wave to arc under the board. He does not want to paddle after it trying to get in over the top. This usually results in a crash down the face. When the wave arcs over the board, the surfer paddles hard three times and pops up. Because the board is pointed down on a real wave, getting on the board quickly usually prevents it from pearling.
Catching Real Waves at an Angle
Catching waves at an angle in the pocket or corner is a very good way to start. As the foam comes over the lip (apex), it will break right or left. The surfer wants to be in front of the foam and in the pocket that is forming on either side. The surfer paddles at a 45 degree angle toward shore so the forming pocket comes under the board. Three good paddles and the surfer pops up.
After the surfer feels comfortable with both processes, he can begin hunting bigger waves.
Learn More
For Oceanside Surf Lessons, see the Home Page
See the Post Surf Lessons Begin with Foam Waves
See the Post What You Learn in a 2 Hour Lesson
See the Post How to Progress in Surfing
See My Dry Land and In Water Demo video
See How to Catch a Green/Real Wave video