Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves
Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves as a progressive step. Beginners start riding foam waves to the beach. Then they paddle out to ride bigger foam waves.
In this process, a beginner is becoming more comfortable with the ocean. He is developing paddling power. He is learning to time waves and execute a pop up. Then he is able to stay in the right stance until he reaches the beach.
Advancing to Riding Real Waves
The difference in real waves from foam waves begins with timing. The foam wave can be seen approaching and be caught anywhere. The real wave breaks in one spot and is open for a few seconds.
The surfer spots where the waves are breaking. The line up is a good indication of where the waves should be caught. The surfer sees a wave forming and paddles to get in position. He wants the wave to come under the board. As the tail rises, he paddles hard and executes a pop up.
Timing is everything. Courage is the unspoken secret ingredient. Beginners will crash many times learning to ride real waves. Getting in position is not easy. If the surfer is not in front of the arc, the wave will pass him. If he is too far in front of the wave, it will crash on top of him.
Timing the Real Wave
Many beginners let the wave get to them and then try to paddle to catch it. If the surfer goes over the top, he will drop straight down and pearl. The surfer must muster the courage to let the wave form over the top of him and paddle down the face.
An easier way for the beginner to ride real waves is to catch them at the corners. They have already broken at the apex (where the foam comes over the top first) and is rolling out to the left or right. The surfer paddles in at a 45 degree angle to the beach in the corner and allows the wave to come under the board. The wave here is not as steep, fast, or as heavy.
A good trick for getting into the pocket is allowing the wave to lift up the board and then after paddling to catch it, push the nose toward the pocket before popping up. This puts the board in the pocket right away without having to ride down the face and bottom turning.
This can all be done on soft top boards. The surfer can continue learning bottom turns, cut backs and accelerating before needing to get a hard board. The surfer also starts riding bigger waves. He begins with real waves that are 2′ to 3′ and progresses to 4, 5, and 6. At this point the surfer is an intermediate and competent riding real waves.
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