Why Surfers Fall Off Their Surfboard
Beginners have the best intention buy have to learn Why Surfers Fall Off Their Surfboard. It isn’t just a beginner problem but one for those who think they are intermediates.
In the tune up lessons I often give for surfers claiming to have a problem catching or riding waves, the solution is usually the same. The surfers are popping into the wrong posture and riding with the wrong stance.
The beginner and the advanced pop up should result in the surfer having his front foot near the nose and feet shoulder width apart. In the pop up, the surfer moves the front foot close to the nose and places it on the middle stringer at a 45 degree angle forward.
Squaring the Hips and Shoulders
The most important part is his hips and shoulders are square to the front so the middle stringer dissects his body and his weight is equal on both sides. (Like in the image above). Most surfers that fall off have their butt over one rail and an arm trailing their body in snowboard style. This places their weight on their heels so they fall off on their butt side.
This occurs after they pop up and when trying to ride real waves. As they carve into the pocket, the weight on the rail with their butt causes them to fall. Surfers ride with their butt on the rail in the pocket to keep the rail into the wave face. But if the surfer is butt on the rail in the pop up, he will fall before he gets in the pocket.
Beginners Need Timing and Rhythm
The reason many beginners fall off the surfboard can be attributed to timing and rhythm. The surfer must paddle to catch a foam wave. When the wave is close, the surfer paddles hard to accelerate in front of the wave before putting their hands on the board. Beginners put their hands on the board often before they have caught the wave and too soon which pushes the nose underwater (pearling).
The second thing beginners do is the timing of the pop up sequence. As the front foot reaches the surfboard, both hands should be rising or in the air. Too many want to hold on until both feet are on the board. This causes them to fly off the front. This problem is timing and often fear of standing up. The surfer is thinking too much instead of just processing through standing up.
Many new surfers never get to the stand up position because they are overweight and/or lack the upper body, core, and lower body strength to get their body upright. These surfers need to engage in weight loss, strength building, and developing flexibility. (see The 3 Week Plan).
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To in surfing shape see my website Get Fit to Surf
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